Andhra's delicate dessert art

A trip to Atreyapuram village in East Godavari to see first-hand how 'pootharekulu' is made

- Prachi Joshi

Emerald fields, small towns, large temples—the three-hour drive from Vijayawada airport to Yelamanchili Lanka village in West Godavari passes in a blur as I doze off and on. Every time I open my eyes, I see lush paddy fields fringed by swaying palms. Fed by the Godavari, the Konaseema region of Andhra Pradesh is a rich, fertile land, and I'm excited to explore this pastoral corner far removed from bustling cities. I arrive at Sterling Palavelli Godavari, a resort set on a coconut plantation, and check in for a weekend of rest and relaxation. Being a bit hungry, I immediately raid the welcome basket in my room. A cane box contains gossamer-thin rice paper rolls stuffed with a ghee-drenched mixture of dry fruits and jaggery. The accompanying note tells me that the sweet is called pootharekulu.