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Los Angeles Times
|December 14, 2025
THE LINE AT Holbox during the midweek lunch hour has become a cultural sensation, a queue of locals and visitors trailing past the automatic doors and around the parking lot like devotees angling for the latest iPhone series or limited-release sneakers.
Believe the lauds, including ours when we named Holbox as The Times' 2023 Restaurant of the Year. Gilberto Cetina's command of mariscos is unmatched. His ceviches, aguachiles and tostadas taste revolutionary in their freshness and jigsaw-intricate flavors. The smoked kanpachi taco alone is one of the most sophisticated things to eat in Los Angeles.
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