The Hill That Watches Over Love

A Kashmiri writer returns to Daresh Hill, where a saint’s shrine and a sweeping view of the valley shape how people understand peace, memory, and beginnings.

- Kaisar Ahmad Malla

I grew up hearing one invitation repeated across Magam and Beerwah: “Walsa Baab Soebun Gasow.”

It always felt larger than its words. It pulled us toward a hill that seemed to hold something steady at its centre.

The shrine of Baba Hanneef U Din Reshi [R.A.] sits on Daresh Hill with a natural ease. People call him Baab Sob as if he were part of the family.

The mystic followed the path of Hazrat Zain Ud Din Wali [R.A.] of Ashmugam, who followed Sheikh Noor Ud Din Noorani [R.A.].

That line of devotion travelled across the valley and settled on this rise in Rathsun Magam.

I often picture Baab Sob choosing the spot for its calm and letting prayer shape the place.