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Dagan Top's Wild Magic

Kashmir Observer

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JULY 27, 2025 ISSUE

With no hotels and fewer footprints, Dagan Top offers a lesson in humility and harmony.

- Sadaket Ali Malik

Dagan Top's Wild Magic

There are no road signs for Dagan Top. No ticket counters, souvenir shops, or well-lit trails.

To reach it, you leave behind Doda town in Jammu and Kashmir and head toward Thathri, a small settlement perched in the Chenab Valley.

From there, the road grows narrower, less certain, more generous in its silences. It leads you toward a landscape that feels like a held breath: green, immense, and remarkably untouched.

Tucked in the Gandoh tehsil of Doda, high up in the Bhalessa hills, Dagan Top is a place that lives in the stories of shepherds and summer wanderers.

Known only to locals and nomadic families who climb these slopes each year with their herds, Dagan remains a mystery to most maps and all mainstream tourist itineraries. And perhaps that's its greatest gift.

The journey ends long before the experience begins.

After Bonencha village, the asphalt disappears. You either walk or hire a horse, threading through pine corridors that open like curtains onto meadows. Gingota is the last point of panchayat governance here, but it feels more like the beginning of something old and elemental.

What greets you at Dagan Top isn’t a monument or resort. It's a vast, undulating canvas: the Rohari meadows spilling across ridgelines, snow-tipped mountains like sentinels standing far and high, and wind sweeping through canopies of deodar and kail as if rehearsing an old hymn.

The air feels thinner, sharper. So does your awareness.

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