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Bhalessa’s Blooming Heart

Kashmir Observer

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JULY 24, 2025 ISSUE

Far from the crowds and camera flashes, Bhal Padri in Jammu and Kashmir offers travellers a vivid, sacred escape into alpine meadows, tribal life, and a rare kind of silence.

- Sadaket Ali Malik

Bhalessa’s Blooming Heart

The road to Bhal Padri doesn’t reveal its secret all at once. It unravels slowly, like a whispered story, beginning in the bustling center of Gandoh and snaking through pine forests, sleepy hamlets, and hills painted in green.

There comes a time when the asphalt turns patchy, the air grows colder, and somewhere between the sound of cowbells and wind slipping through trees, the world begins to feel softer.

Then the meadow appears.

Wide and wild, Bhal Padri stretches out like a dream: rolled in flowers, framed by forests, and crowned by distant snowy peaks.

For amoment, it feels as though time has folded in on itself. There are no hotels or tour buses, no phone signals or souvenir stalls. Only colours — lavenders, whites, golds — scattered across the grass like offerings to the sky.

Tucked into the Changa region of Bhalessa in Jammu and Kashmir’s Doda district, Bhal Padri sits silently at 2,500 meters above sea level, untouched by the noise of modern travel.

Known to those who live around it as Wadi-e-Gulposh, or the Valley of Blooming Flowers, the name isn't a poetic flourish. It’s a lived reality.

From late spring through summer, the valley turns into a natural mosaic of buttercups, bluebells, daisies, and wild herbs. Even the breeze seems scented.

Unlike the polished postcard Kashmir of Instagram fame, this valley demands nothing and gives everything. There are no curated views or constructed experiences. You arrive as you are, and the place meets you with raw beauty.

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