Where the wild things are

On a private conservancy in Zimbabwe, Rohini Nilekani experiences moments of awe, as she comes face to face with elephants and rhinos. Can we find ways to coexist in India too, adapting to animals as they have to us?

- Rohini Nilekani

It was a bunker made of reinforced concrete and steel. It was half underground, and camouflaged with mud, leaves and grass. Just beyond this innocuous-looking mound was a waterbody about the size of a large swimming pool.

Ahead of it, we could see an African tusker making his way to the pond.

“Hurry, the animals are already here. We are late,” said our guide, as he opened a metal door to reveal steps leading down into a dark chamber.

We emerged, curious and a bit nervous, from our safari jeep. One by one, we entered this man-made cave. It was surprisingly roomy inside, with a toilet to one side.

Our guide slid open steel windows all around the room, each 2 ft tall and at eye level. There were no grills or meshes.

Then the evening show started.

The elephant reached the water, gauged the scene and slowly started drinking. He was soon joined by others, attracted to the best water source in the vicinity. This was their evening routine.

Before our wonderstruck eyes, white rhinos began to edge in. Four mothers with four calves of varying ages eyed each other and the tuskers. From afar, zebras and an eland were watching too, waiting their turn.

This was a unique African safari experience for us. We were on a private conservancy in Zimbabwe, spread over 150,000 hectares, far from the tourist rush in Masai Mara. Here, the owners have successfully created a haven for thousands of creatures.