Cultural cheating

From Prada's Kolhapuris to Ralph Lauren's jhumkas, fashion's love for Indian craft continues, but sans credit

- VAISHALI DAR

N YET ANOTHER controversy around cultural appropriation, global fashion label Ralph Lauren's latest collection debuted at Paris Fashion Week this month has found itself under scrutiny in India, this time for showcasing traditional Indian jhumkas without acknowledging their origins.

As the iconic Indian earrings made their way from Bareilly's bazaars to Paris Fashion Week, they were presented merely as "authentic vintage accessories," with no mention of their cultural roots.

Social media users were quick to call it out. One comment read, "The Janpath cool girl aesthetic has reached Ralph Lauren," while another criticised the omission more sharply, calling it "peak whitewashing" and arguing that rebranding cultural symbols from the Global South without credit is far from trivial.

This isn't an isolated case. Luxury brands have repeatedly faced backlash for drawing from Indian heritage without due recognition. Most recently, Prada came under fire for its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection, where its 'toe ring sandals' bore a striking resemblance to traditional Kolhapuri chappals. Initially, the brand failed to credit the centuries-old GI-tagged craft that is handcrafted in Maharashtra and Karnataka, prompting criticism from artisans and cultural groups alike.