Megamix of London's of Japanese cool might be one most remarkable places

Soulful slice of minimalism: above, the dining room. Dishes, right from bottom, include chicken meatball and cured yolk; grilled mochi and celeriac tare; and duck rice

- Jimi Famurewa

FORK AND TALK

Evernight 3 Ravine Way, SW11 7BH. Meal for two plus drinks about £170. Open Wednesday to Saturday, 6pm — 10.30pm; evernightlondon.co.uk

EVEN as someone who grew up in the shadow of Bluewater, with an avowed soft spot for massive shopping centres, the revamped Battersea Power Station is a challenge. In fact, it is probably something more actively unnerving than that. Served by a lavish new Northern Line stop and heralded by toe-curling, Brentian signage (“Electric buzzing vibes this way!”), it manages, somehow, to simultaneously bewilder and underwhelm; a gleaming airport mega mall of already-ubiquitous brands, suspicious security guards, and acres of “coming soon” hoardings that underline the sense of an inadvertent monument to lots of things that aren’t quite ready yet. Roll up, roll up — but not until summer 2023.

However, if you stroll a little way towards Nine Elms, that freshly prospected haunch of the capital near Vauxhall, you’ll find something unexpectedly grounded, soulful and fully realised. Because there, opposite the shimmering fortress of the US Embassy building, sits a dim-lit slice of careful Japanese cool and beauty.