Trump's tariff threat looms over Japan teamakers

A breeze carries murmurs and quiet laughter between the rows of bright green tea leaves that are growing in dappled shade as workers harvest the plants that are destined to become matcha.

- TOMA MOCHIZUKI

The Kokaen tea farm in Toyota, Aichi Prefecture, is just one of the many across Japan that has benefited from the sudden surge in interest in powdered green tea, but the industry is now facing uncertainty caused by US President Donald Trump's tariff salvos.

US President Donald Trump announces "reciprocal tariffs" at the White House in Washington on April 2, 2025.

Founded by Noba's grandfather, Takakichi, in 1945, Kokaen is one of the few remaining tea farms in the region better known for hosting Toyota Motor Corp and its factories. Nishio, the neighbouring city, is especially known for green tea.

Japanese green tea exports have surged in the past few years, marking a record 36.4 billion yen (8.4 billion baht) in 2024, more than triple the value of ten years earlier.

According to the Finance Ministry, the United States took 44.2% of those exports, significantly more than Germany, which, at 9.2%, was second.

Production, however, has lagged behind demand. Some 75,200 tonnes were grown in 2023, down by more than 20% compared to 15 years ago, according to the Japanese Association of Tea Production.

Experts attribute the decrease to myriad reasons, including the country's rapidly declining population.

The Japanese government has been incentivising farmers to switch from other tea varieties to tencha, a tea leaf typically ground to make matcha, as international demand soars.