LET THEM EAT GOO

Liquid meals are on the rise

- ELLA QUITTNER

It would take the fastest among us a few minutes, at minimum, to scarf down a salad. It takes Savanna Riley "30 seconds, maybe less", to finish hers. Ever since she ordered a 28-pack of Liquid Salad from Liquid+, Riley, a US government employee who lives in Redding, California, wastes no time chewing.

Not quite a smoothie and definitely not your seasonal Sweetgreen order, the blend of cucumber, kale, celery, okra, broccoli and other plant products promises to satisfy your "all-in-one fruit and veggie" needs at a fraction of the time and cost.

Lately, the cultural pendulum has begun to swing from protein obsession to a more balanced approach to macronutrients — an evolution that bodes well for products designed to replace an entire meal. Aspirationally branded meal replacements are hitting algorithms and shelves in droves, targeting Americans who feel busier, more strapped and more health-conscious than ever.

Some of these products, such as Ka'Chava's "all-in-one nutrition shake" powder, which costs US$69.95 (about 2,200 baht) per bag, and Huel's "ready-to-drink meals" are spiritual descendants of Soylent, the coder-endorsed meal replacement made from soy protein isolate that conquered Silicon Valley more than a decade ago.