Indonesia's Free Market 'Superblocks'

YOU DON’T NEED CENTRAL PLANNERS TO GET PEDESTRIAN-FRIENDLY URBAN DESIGN.

- SCOTT BEYER

JAKARTA, INDONESIA—The central business district of Indonesia’s 11-million–person capital has the social contrast found in many other developing world megacities. Modern skyscrapers accommodate Indonesia’s elite, while shabby informal villages spread from the base of such buildings. I wanted to experience this latter, more common, style so one morning my translator Julya and I walked a few minutes from my upscale French hotel chain across a dirty canal and into a village.

The standardized First World planning aesthetic of square buildings and engineered roadways quickly yielded to clustered huts organized along a twisty network of alleys. This village style is common in the Third World, a bastion of organic, market-oriented development that often withstands the modernization plans of city officials, even in central areas. It bears a striking resemblance to a popular concept in the Western urban planning world: the “superblock.”

In superblocks, wide roads and streets are spaced far apart rather than allocated frequently on a grid pattern. The area in between, too condensed to accommodate cars, is reserved for pedestrians, motorbikes, buildings, and courtyards, with alleyways connecting it all.

Such blocks were the historical default before cities were planned for automobiles and before machines made clearing rights of way much easier. Paths would extend along routes that were topographically easy and would be cleared just wide enough for needed pass-throughs.