Greek Expectations

Who says jewellery houses and "it" bags don't go together? Not in Bvlgari's case, asserts its new creative director of leather goods and accessories, Mary Katrantzou.

- YANNI TAN

It is truly an understatement that Bvlgari's handbags have been a runaway success. Since its signature snake motif was introduced to its first handbag range in 2011, there was simply no stopping the Roman maison.

Over the years, as Bvlgari's bag collections continued to grow and evolve, several high-profile "Serpenti Through The Eyes Of... capsule collaborations with young fashion designers further cemented the Serpenti purse as another house icon. In particular, the Serpenti Forever top handle and shoulder bags, which come in gorgeous limited-production snake skins and luscious calf leathers, have been as desirable as any of the latest trending styles from the fashion world.

Among the talents, Bvlgari has partnered with are Alexander Wang, Nicholas Kirkwood, Yoon Ahn of Ambush, and, importantly, Mary Katrantzou, who is well-known for her audacious colour sensibility, exuberant prints, and form and material innovation.

In 2021, she reimagined the reptile's head as bejewelled clutches and its slithering form as bag handles. This creative interlude was followed in 2023 with a mini capsule placing the serpent in a lush garden of embroidered crystal and glass beads.

So stunning has been the Greekborn designer's spin on the emblematic Serpenti that, naturally, she was tapped for the newly created role of Bvlgari's creative director of leather goods and accessories. While she has been busy dreaming up new ideas since joining the house this April, she finds time to speak to The Peak about her debut Calla collection and the road ahead.

What about Bvlgari resonates with your work and interests?

Bvlgari has profoundly inspired me and shaped my identity as a designer. In my work, I have drawn inspiration from fashion and objects d'art, interior