MAKE CHEFS BEG FOR CABBAGE

They all want S sweet, juicy leaves.”

- CHRIS CROWLEY

ON FRIDAYS, the Union Square Green-market is filled with chefs picking up tomatoes or squash ahead of the weekend rush, sure, but most important, they're trying to get some face time with Zaid Kurdieh, the owner of Norwich Meadows Farm in Chenango County. "It became a status thing for me to form that relationship and to be someone they are going to hold their top crop for," says Andrew Sutin, the executive chef of the Mary Lane, a low-key locavore spot in the West Village. He'd strike up conversations with Ku