SMALL PLATES BIG PRICES The Rise of Tapas-Style Dining in Goa

It begins with a whisper of beetroot espuma, a sliver of cured kingfish, and three impeccably plated microgreens dusted with edible ash.

- By Gauri Ghadge

INTRODUCTION: A REVOLUTION ON THE PLATE

The price? 750. Welcome to the world of tapas-style dining, where less is more, aesthetics rule, and your plate might resemble a canvas more than a meal. Once synonymous with the sun-soaked bars of Spain, tapas culture has now made its luxurious pivot into Goa's vibrant food scene, not as casual bites over wine, but as a statement of refinement, ambition, and price-tagged artistry. What was once a land of thali houses, seafood shacks, and hearty susegad meals is now embracing a culinary transformation that is as controversial as it is compelling. This cover story unpacks the phenomenon in full - its origins, economics, philosophy, presentation, criticism, and where it may lead next.

Tapas has evolved from mere sustenance to become a cultural artefact. It draws from art, performance, and nostalgia, converging at the intersection of hospitality and storytelling. In Goa, it's rewriting not only menus but mindsets. Let's explore this transformation in all its dimensions.

FROM SPAIN TO SALIGAO: HOW TAPAS TOOK ROOT IN GOA

Tapas, the quintessential Spanish culinary tradition, has a rich and multifaceted history. The term "tapas" derives from the Spanish verb tapar, meaning "to cover." One popular legend suggests that King Alfonso XIII, while visiting a tavern in Cádiz, was served a glass of sherry covered with a slice of ham to protect it from dust and flies. The king appreciated this gesture and requested another drink "with the cover," leading to the term "tapas" becoming synonymous with small bites served alongside beverages.