Happy and Gay?

While Bhutan’s rising Gross National Happiness index reflects overall well-being, the experiences of its queer community show there is still progress to be made.

- RIA SINGH

Located in the eastern Himalayas, Bhutan is a country that prioritises Gross National Happiness (GNH) over Gross Domestic Product (GDP), a philosophy introduced in the 1970s. This commitment to fostering well-being and happiness is evident in the country’s steadily rising GNH index, which has increased from 0.743 in 2010 to 0.781 in 2022. And when I visited in August, it wasn’t hard to see why.

The Queen Mother, Gyalyum Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck, delivered a royal address as I sat in the hall of Royal Bhutan University on the opening day of Bhutan Echoes, Drukyul’s Literature and Arts Festival—an annual event dedicated to educating, enlightening, and sharing Bhutanese culture with the world. She encouraged the young audience to “keep a record of what you experience, what is important to you, and what you observe”.

Inspired by her speech, I set out to explore the area around the university on foot. Along the way, I met people who greeted me with warm smiles, seemingly free from the burden of stress—a stark contrast to the bustling metropolis of Delhi that I call home. Bhutan’s high happiness index seemed to be reflected in its people. But was this truly the big picture? I found myself reflecting on the words of entrepreneur and social worker Sangay Tshering, who, during one of the sessions, asked, “Is happiness truly synonymous with Bhutan, or is it merely the image we project to the world?” The question hung in the air, rhetorical but compelling.

As I walked through the streets, I noticed people wearing Gho and Kira, (traditional dresses of the people of Bhutan)—there was an undeniable sense of uniformity. It looked visually harmonious, but it made me wonder how queer identity and expression fit into this seemingly uniform cultural setting. Can three days at a festival really capture the essence of a nation? Probably not. Yet, I couldn’t shake the question: How are queer individuals in Bhutan faring? More than that, are they being heard?