Raising a glass to China's wine revolution

From terroir and tasting profiles, to pricing strategies, we uncork a conversation that reveals what it takes for China to pour itself into the global canon of serious wine.

- BY AMY VAN

China’s wine industry, once dismissed by traditionalists and sceptics, is no longer merely fermenting, it's flourishing.

From the high-altitude vineyards of Ningxia to the sun-drenched valleys of Yunnan, a new viticultural narrative is taking shape: one that fuses ambitious winemaking with bold experimentation and an eye towards the global stage. Grape varieties like Marselan are thriving, homegrown labels are commanding attention at international competitions, and domestic winemakers are bottling the quality to match.

To better understand this evolving landscape, we speak to Richard Hemming MW, 67 Pall Mall's head of wine, Asia, who led the ‘Chinese Treasure Hunt’ wine tasting session recently, featuring labels such as 2021 Xige Estate Jade Dove Single Vineyard Cabernet Gernischt, and 2012 Domaine Franco-Chinois Reserve Marselan. These wines received accolades at the Wynn's Signature China Wine Awards held in Macau earlier this year. Richard was one of the judges for the competition.

What inspires Chinese winemakers to produce such amazing wines?