Kale and hearty

Of the many small consolations of winter, the sight of a tall, elegant, frost-painted perennial kale catching the early light and the flavour of the shredded leaves pushed around a pan with olive oil, chilli and garlic are hard to beat.

- Mark Diacono

I sow familiar kales (Brassica oleracea var. acephala) every year—most are hardy biennials, grown as annuals—and, to go with these, I plant an increasing number of perennial kales, such as Daubenton’s kale (Brassica oleracea var. ramosa ‘Daubenton’). The leaves and flowerheads of both are wonderful to eat and, once established, the perennials offer year-round deliciousness, as well as adding structure and presence to the garden, which I particularly appreciate through the coolest months. Perennial kales were once more commonly grown, but increasing curiosity in edible perennials means more varieties are once again available.

‘Daubenton’ is a Victorian favourite that, as is not uncommon in perennial kales, grows to a larger size than many annual varities. Don’t be surprised if most reach 5ft high and wide, with walking stick kale occasionally—with the right encouragement—reaching about 10ft in height.

‘Sutherland’ kale, with its succulent leaves, is the sweetest variety I've tried; ‘Daubenton’ and ‘Taunton Deane’ are both classically mid-green in colour and with a bright, balanced flavour. ‘Big Green Lazy’ looks and tastes like a larger version of (the widely grown ‘annual’) ‘Red Russian’ kale.