Back to the future

From prawn cocktail and Arctic roll to starched tablecloths and 'nicotine cream' on the walls, it's out with the new and in with the old in the restaurant world

- David Ellis

THE direction in which we travel is often a response to the headwinds we're facing. At present, the geopolitical gusts feel as blustery as they've ever been; it's all rather End Of Days. In times of uncertainty, comfort is found in the familiar and nowhere is this more true than in restaurants. Chefs are downing their tweezers in favour of food that doesn't need explaining as it's served and even dining rooms look more like they used to: low lighting, dressed-up waiters, reassuringly crisp white tablecloths and seating that is actually comfortable. None of this is in the idle name of nostalgia or owing to a deficit of creativity, but is because it's what diners want.

'It's really resonated—in fact, it's been one of our most popular menus, with hundreds of orders in the first month alone,' declares Jamie Shears, executive chef at Mount St Restaurant in Mayfair, London W1. He's talking about the decidedly old-school three-course set menu he launched over the summer: prawn cocktail, a chicken vol-au-vent with mash and a slice of strawberry-swirled Arctic roll. It has gone down a storm—visiting on a Monday evening during peak holidaying-abroad season, every table was full, with some occupants visibly moved by their transportive nursery-luxe puddings.