THE MIDAS TOUCH

Designer Gaurav Gupta has straddled the line between the traditional and modern for nearly two decades now. After making the sinuous sari gown his sculpted signature, his next stop: bridal domination.

- BARRY RODGERS

Dubai-based fashion journalist and author Sujata Assomull vividly remembers attending Gaurav Gupta’s debut show in 2006 at the then Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week. It was a moment filled with excitement as there was a lot of buzz around the Central Saint Martins alumnus, who had returned to India with a fresh approach to design.

“During our interview at that time, he mentioned that he didn’t intend to enter the Indian wear market. But like many designers, he soon realised the significance of embracing this audience,” says Assomull, who also highlights that Indian fashion is rich in heritage and tradition, and it’s challenging to be a contemporary designer— especially in the bridalwear space— without drawing inspiration from our own culture.

“What sets him apart is the way he incorporated these elements in his distinctive style. He ventured into bridalwear, beginning with his sari gowns (which he introduced in 2006) and extraordinary ball-gown lehengas that were part of his evening wear collections,” she adds. “Brides found his creations so refreshing and unique that they began to wear them for cocktail events during weddings, even before his official entry into the bridal wear segment.”

CARVING HIS PATH

The sari gown, in particular, has become Gupta’s signature. With it, the designer has reimagined the typically rectangular fabric wrapped around the body in various styles into something more alluring. For instance, he introduced into our fashion vocabulary a Grecian-style drape, incorporating details such as knotting and plaiting to create a sexier, more contemporary version of the classic sari.