Moroccan CARPET RIDE

Writer Celia Barbour embarks on an illuminating journey beyond the merchant-lined streets of Fez and Marrakech in search of the craftswomen behind the coveted hand-loomed rugs.

- Writer Celia Barbour

I noticed an elderly man laying crimson rugs end to end along a cobblestone alleyway.

What's he doing? I asked my guide, Jalil.

Lining the way to a restaurant, he told me, to make a nice passage for the guests. I paused, imagining how great any of those rugs would look in our dining room back home. Just then, a moped puttered up and parked on top of one. The driver and his girlfriend got off, removed their helmets, and sauntered into the restaurant.

The original red carpet, Jalil said.

Rugs are everywhere in Morocco, from royal palaces to Bedouin mud huts to hidden alleys. In an environment of muted, nearly monochromatic hues—ochres, tans, sages, and browns—they glow like wildflowers. Spread across a landscape of stone, sand, and clay, they exude softness, comfort, and warmth. I defy any visitor not to fall in love with them.

But try buying one, and the romance quickly fades. For all their ubiquity, rugs can sometimes be frustrating to purchase in Moroccan cities. That was my experience at least, during my first trip to the country, and informal research suggests I'm not alone.

It's not that big-city rug merchants aren't friendly. Walk into their stores and they'll offer you mint tea and a place to sit, bring out dishes of walnuts and dates. You're just browsing? Not a problem. Relax. Which rugs catch your eye?