THE MAGIC OF MAYO

SURPRISING NEW WAYS TO LOVE THE SOUTH'S FAVORITE CONDIMENT

- KIMBERLY HOLLAND

I have a confession to make: I never liked mayo. When I was 5 years old, my sweet grandfather made me a ham-and-cheese sandwich slathered with the stuff, prompting a calamitous meltdown my family will never let me forget. While they love mayo in everything including their mashed potatoes-I was haunted by the sight of a jar for years.

In the South, a dislike of mayo can make life a treacherous journey. Potlucks and picnics require a sort of hopscotch through the side dishes. Casseroles are often off-limits. Even desserts can be difficult. I can't deny that my aversion, though well-founded and honest, leaves me short a wealth of fascinating foods. That's why recently, begrudgingly, I've had a change of heart.

The truth is...mayonnaise is magical. It's like alchemy how the combination of oil, egg yolks, and vinegar creates a kind of saucy sorcery that can render cakes more tender, meat juicier, and crusts crispier. With that spirit of wonder, we tasked our Test Kitchen with finding uses for this condiment that reveal just how versatile it can be. Mayonnaise works in baffling ways that few ingredients canmaking it the South's closest thing to a superfood. Even I am learning to keep an open mind-and a jar in the fridge.

Tartar Sauce-Battered Fried Fish
ACTIVE 30 MIN. TOTAL 40 MIN.

1. Stir together mayonnaise, dill, pickles, capers, Dijon mustard, sugar, Worcestershire sauce, and ½ teaspoon each garlic powder and onion powder in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate.