A Sweet Memory

I gave my late grandmother’s recipe a fresh update—and the results would make her proud

- IVY ODOM,VICTOR PROTASIO

WHEN MY FAMILY GATHERED for my grandmother’s funeral earlier this year, my dad came across her recipe box. Inside, he found a splattered, handwritten index card for Pineapple Jelly Roll, one of his favorite desserts. He asked if I’d make it, so I took the recipe home and started poring over my grandmother’s haphazard notes. Her measurements were clear, but the instructions were murky. I did my best to interpret her words, and a few hours later, my first attempt was ready. But there was one glaring issue: It was ugly, and not in an endearing way either. Even a generous dusting of powdered sugar didn’t help. After making tiny tweaks to the filling (a tad less brown sugar, a splash of lemon juice) and adding pineapple whipped cream to cover up the craggy exterior, I finally felt like I had done Doris Odom justice. I’m baking it for my dad this Thanksgiving so that, for just a moment, we’ll have my grandmother back at the table with us.

Pineapple Jelly Roll

ACTIVE 1 HOUR, 30 MIN. - TOTAL 2 HOURS, 30 MIN. - SERVES 12

2 (8-oz.) cans crushed pineapple in juice

2 Tbsp. cornstarch

2 Tbsp. light brown sugar