SIDE SHOW

AT A BARBECUE RESTAURANT, SIDE DISHES ARE LIKE THE HALFTIME SHOW AT THE SUPER BOWL-THEY MAY NOT BE THE MAIN EVENT, BUT FOR SOME OF US, THEY'RE THE WHOLE REASON TO SHOW UP. AS NINE RISING STAR PITMASTERS ACROSS THE SOUTH PROVE HERE, WHEN SIDES ARE DONE RIGHT, THEY CAN EASILY STEAL THE SHOW.

- HANNAH LEE LEIDY AND EMILY HAVENER

ARROZ CON GANDULES

From Hector Garate, Palmira Barbecue, Charleston

SERVES 6 TO 8

This classic Puerto Rican dish is traditionally paired with lechón, slow-roasted pork. Because the rice complements fatty meats, and in keeping with his determination to use less-traditional cuts at Palmira, Garate developed a beef cheeks preparation that he recommends as this dish's companion. Notes: A caldero is a pot with similarities to a dutch oven. In a pinch, sofrito and sazón can be found at Latin markets.

In a caldero or dutch oven add olive oil and place over medium heat. Add Sofrito and heat for 2 minutes, then add rice and stir to mix fully. Add remaining ingredients and bring to a simmer until rice is cooked and has absorbed most of the liquid. Fold rice until mixed well, then cover and cook on low for 20 minutes more. Serve from the pot.

Sofrito

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

Although it tastes somewhat similar to cilantro, culantro is more pungent and has long, serrated-looking leaves. Find it at Latin markets.

Roughly chop onion and peppers. Combine in a blender along with oil and blend until smooth.

Sazón

MAKES ABOUT 1/2 CUP

Achiote powder (also known as annatto seed powder) can be found online or at Latin markets.

1/3 cup achiote powder

4 tablespoons garlic powder

1 tablespoon onion powder

1 teaspoon ground coriander

In a small bowl, stir together all ingredients.