The Comeback Grape

Overlooked for years, Chenin Blanc is back.

- Ray Isle

IN SOMMELIER LAND, Chenin Blanc is a name to conjure with, a must-have for any of-the-moment wine list. But head past those borders into the world of regular U.S. wine drinkers, and this white variety remains one of the least familiar great wine grapes of the world.

Chenin was popular in the U.S., once upon a time. In 1988, there were over 36,000 acres of it planted in California; today, there are a little over 4,000. Yet the winds of wine change might be blowing. Those winemakers who do have a passion for Chenin often sell out their wines swiftly. Admittedly, some of these are made in minuscule quantities—Palisades Canyon in Napa Valley makes one of the best U.S. Chenins I’ve ever had, but it makes under 100 cases of it—others, though, are not.

And, of course, Chenin can be found in abundance in its homeland, the Loire Valley in France, as well as in South Africa. No matter where it’s made, qualities that sommeliers love are present: scintillating acidity, a key to its versatility on the table; a range of textures from crisp and light to lush and rich; compelling flavors on a citrus-apple-peach spectrum, sometimes accented with honey notes. As winemaker John Skupny of Lang & Reed winery, whose 2023 Mendocino Chenin was one of the stars of F&W’s recent Chenin tasting, says, “It’s great to see such a versatile, complex, and delicious grape finally have its day, especially when it comes from so many different regions in the world.” I couldn’t agree more.

UNITED STATES

2023 DRY CREEK VINEYARD CLARKSBURG DRY CHENIN BLANC ($18)

Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Vineyard has been making Chenin Blanc for decades now, and the wine’s been a perennial overachiever at its price. It’s fresh and succulent, with flavors that recall melon and grapefruit.