PLAY UP THE Pies

Try these chef upgrades to classic desserts for a strong finish to your feast.

- MADDY SWEITZER-LAMMÉ

AT WALNUT FAMILY BAKERY in Marshall, North Carolina, 2020 F&W Best New Chef Camille Cogswell’s pastries are seasonal and personal—and always have a smart upgrade. She constantly pulls ingredients from the farmers and artisans who surround her, and she lets that drive what she makes, including cookies, laminated pastries, and weekly pie specials, available whole and by the slice. “The menu changes here all the time,” she says, laughing, “but there will always, always be pie.”

Come wintertime, she makes a sweet potato pie inspired by the one her mother made growing up, but with cocoa from local French Broad Chocolate and sweet potatoes from nearby Two Stones Farm. There’s also cranberry-lime curd pie, its citrusy kick an ideal balance to Thanksgiving flavors, and peanut butter chess pie—a nostalgic spin on the Southern dessert staple.

At her bakery, Cogswell makes her pastries in French-style masonry ovens powered by wood fires, but her recipes work just as well in a home oven. Here, she shares three pour-in holiday pies that capture her unique perspective, with twists on classic flavor profiles that will satisfy every kind of pie lover. Choose your favorite, or make all three: A slice of each works very well on a single plate.

Sweet Potato Pie with Cocoa Crust

IF YOU’RE THE PERSON who’s looking forward to a slice (or two) of pumpkin pie each year, you’ll love this pie’s silky texture and warming spices. The crust adds an intense cocoa flavor that balances the pie’s sweetness. It’s fully baked to ensure it stays crisp and flaky even after it’s filled and returned to the oven. A border of marshmallowy toasted meringue gives a nod to classic sweet potato casserole, and a final flourish of crunchy chocolate and pecan garnishes helps make this pie a worthy finale to a Thanksgiving feast.