Oxtail Magic

Chef Osei “Picky” Blackett shares the secret to transforming oxtails into rich and beefy dishes.

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TRINIDADIAN OXTAIL STEW

A HISTORICALLY inexpensive cut of beef, oxtails are having a resurgence, and Trinidadian chef Osei “Picky” Blackett, owner of Ariapita in Brooklyn, is part of the push. Similar to other ingredients that were once put in a corner (Brussels sprouts and kale come to mind), oxtails are now trending and in demand. And for Blackett, that makes sense—he’s been encountering the increasingly popular ingredient in his frequent travels around the globe.

Cut from the tail of cattle, oxtails are easily recognizable: The bone is crescent-shaped, 1- to 2-inch-thick sections, sheathed in a narrow center that’s surrounded by fat and meat segments in a wagon wheel-like arrangement. Though rich with lots of connective tissue, oxtails require slow cooking to transform the meat into succulent, tender bites. Before getting started, Blackett recommends washing the oxtails in a lime juice and water solution to reduce their sliminess.

Oxtails are used in dishes around the world, but Blackett notes that Trinidadian-style oxtails have two major distinctions: green seasoning and caramelized sugar. Green seasoning is a paste of fresh aromatics, including culantro, ginger, and garlic, that is used to both marinate the meat and season the stew. After marinating and being braised, the oxtails are browned and coated in a caramelized sugar mixture to impart the stew with a rich color and faint caramelike sweetness.

“I just love oxtail. I love the fattiness of it,” says Blackett. “I love the texture.” His enthusiasm comes through in his rich and intensely savory Trinidadian Oxtail Stew (recipe opposite). If the