LAVUCIRIA

THIS SICILIAN MARKET WAS NAMED THE BEST MARKET IN THE WORLD—AND IT'S A PARTY.

- BY LAURA ITZKOWITZ

THE SCENT OF FRYING oil hits you first. Then, a cloud of steam. It's a sweaty experience, especially in the height of summer. But none of that deters the throngs of diners and shoppers who fill the tiny streets of La Vucciria market in Palermo, Sicily. Tourists chow down on arancini for lunch, rubbing elbows with the local grandparents (known here as nonni) busy buying fresh fish and vegetables. All the while, vendors holler their prices to attract customers. It's a chaotic scene— one befitting a market whose name loosely translates to “hubbub” or “noise.”

La Vucciria is the oldest market in the Sicilian capital. It sprawls throughout a network of alleys and piazzas in Palermo’s medieval Castellammare quarter. Although its origins are murky, the market is thought to have been in business for more than 700 years, giving it plenty of gravitas. But while the traditional ways may still be going strong, its advanced age hasn't stopped it from having fun.