Matzo Mia

Momma and Grandma really do know best. For editorial director Joanna Saltz, matzo ball soup has been a family affair for generations.

- Joanna Saltz

THE FIRST TIME I TASTED PERFECTLY HOMEMADE MATZO BALL SOUP was at my boyfriend’s mom’s house when I was 17. It was Passover, and Marcia’s seder (the traditional holiday dinner) was warm and welcoming. Her soup followed suit: The broth was deeply flavorful but incredibly light; the matzo balls were soft and pillowy yet just dense enough to hold their shape when you dug into them with a spoon.

Once my boyfriend became my husband, I asked my new mother-in-law for her secrets. She explained that, as with any great Jewish recipe, the final result was a group effort: Her mother-in-law, Sarah, had actually taught her how to make a perfect broth, and her friend Rita gave her the key to the matzo balls (it’s seltzer!). But also with any great Jewish recipe, there’s a lot of autonomy involved: How salty do you like it? How big should your matzo balls be? Do your guests like veggies or a clear broth? The first few years of hosting seders would become an exercise in trial and error until I figured it all out.