Uruguay’s COASTAL WHITES

Over the past two decades, white wine has been gaining ground in this red-dominated country, as inventive winemakers explore different terroirs – and varieties – to great (and delicious) effect

- AMANDA BARNES

That Uruguay became famous for its brooding, dark black Tannat wines is perhaps surprising. With an Atlantic coastal climate and endless, golden sandy beaches, you would have thought that Uruguay was bound to be white wine territory.

In a country where cows outnumber people three to one, and beef is a staple at almost every meal, it was perhaps a cultural steering that led wineries to make Tannat their champion variety. It certainly pairs well with the local asado (barbecue), and the thick skins have proved an asset in the country’s often rainy climate. Tannat’s naturally stable nature, with high acid and feisty tannins, probably also helped it become the most desirable variety on which to lean.

Tannat dominates Uruguay’s plantings – accounting for more than a quarter of vineyards today – and it’s unlikely to be knocked off its throne any time soon. However, there is a rising tide of fresh coastal white wines that are changing the landscape of Uruguayan wine and enticing winemakers and wine drinkers alike.

WHITE REVIVAL

The artisanal nature and boutique size of many of its wine producers is one of Uruguay’s calling cards. They produce very individual wines throughout the wine regions. It’s a virtue in terms of diversity, but it also means that these wineries, with their smaller size and smaller budgets, have been slower to modernise and accrue the technology required for modern white winemaking.