Rasteau’s NEW LOOK

Thanks to changes in both consumer tastes and the climate, a gentler, more considered style of winemaking has led to a fresher, more elegant interpretation of this former powerhouse

- MATT WALLS

Imagine you went to a restaurant and ordered what you thought was a modest Burgundy, but it tasted like a great Bordeaux. Would you be disappointed? Even if what I received was technically a better wine, I think I would be. After all, quality isn’t the overriding criteria when I select a bottle of wine to drink; most of all, I’m thirsting for a specific style.

That’s why I’m sometimes wary when hearing about a change of direction in an appellation. Am I still going to find the wine I’m looking for in the bottle? Fortunately, the arrival of a fresher and finer interpretation of Rasteau is an entirely welcome development.

TOO CONCENTRATED

Cairanne and Rasteau sit at the heart of the Côtes du Rhône growing area on the east bank of the Rhône river. They share the southern face of a huge clay limestone hill, 10km across: Cairanne on the western half, Rasteau on the east. But the wines are very different.

While the reds from both appellations exhibit that classic sun-drenched generosity of fruit and body, Cairanne tends towards elegance, and Rasteau chooses power. And it is, to some degree, a choice. Rasteau naturally delivers ripe and concentrated wines, but local winemakers often work to accentuate these assets. Because this is what so many people love about Rasteau: its potency, its bounteousness.