MUST DISCOVER

Our local experts cut through the bewildering diversity of Central and Eastern Europe's grape varieties to bring you the pick of the bunch

- INTRODUCTION CAROLINE GILBY MW

As a young wine buyer, I cut my teeth sourcing from vast state wine factories in Central and Eastern Europe (Bulgarian Cabernet or Slovenian Lutomer Laski Rizling, anyone?), and ever since, I've been fascinated with the region's wines.

I've witnessed a complete revolution in winemaking since the collapse of the Iron Curtain, leading to today's diversity of exciting and delicious wines - and luckily for readers, they're increasingly available in export markets. Across the extensive region, each country has emerged from its volume-production past in a different way, and wine is such a great lens through which to follow these stories – it brings together the stunning landscapes, climate, grapes and people who shape it.

Central and Eastern European countries aren't just recent upstarts but have deep, authentic roots and multi-millennial wine histories. Recent research shows that the Balkan peninsula and Central and Eastern Europe were important mixing grounds on the route of grapevines travelling west after domestication in the Caucasus and Near East around 11,000 years ago, which may explain the incredible diversity here. Wines from the region have enjoyed a noble history - reaching royal tables (Hungary's Tokaji was adored by Louis XIV) and international shows (wines from Serbia's Negotin region were showcased at the Royal Albert Hall in 1874).

Flavour map