DARK RUM revolution

People who like rum tend to really love it. The unrestrained nature of the spirit means that the pace of innovation among producers is fast, with new cask-ageing techniques and flavour styles emerging all the time, notably among the dark rums

- NEIL RIDLEY

The world of rum is an exciting place to be at the moment, particularly when it comes to dark and spiced rums. A host of innovative players are developing new products, and there are a number of brand-new, craft producers opening up in unlikely, distinctly un-rummy' locations.

It's easy to see why. According to data from market analyst NielsenIQ, the rum category surpassed £1 billion in sales in the UK in the 12 months to July 2022, actually putting it ahead of whisky for the first time. This achievement is said to be driven by increased interest from younger drinkers (aged 18-34) and also by the perception of freedom that comes with rum for both producers and consumers: a spirit with limitless serves and flavour potential.

A COLOURFUL CONUNDRUM

'Dark rum' is a fascinating descriptor in itself, as the colour of the spirit really is in the eye of the beholder - and often the creativity of the producer. The wider rum category was once seen as a 'wild west' when it came to regulations, but there are now more stringent rules in some of the main producing regions, such as Cuba, Jamaica and Puerto Rico. These cover which additives can and can't be mixed with rum, especially with regard to its colour and sweetness. A number of producers don't add anything by way of additional flavour or colour.

When choosing a rum, it makes sense to consider the raw ingredients and techniques used, both of which have a huge impact on the flavour. For instance, heavier pot-distilled, molasses-based spirits will be full of heady esters and robust flavour, while in contrast, column-distilled cane juice rums tend to be (though aren't limited to being) more fruity, aromatic and fresh-tasting.

THE CASK CONNECTION