A taste of THE Tamar

This Tasmanian region offers world-class wineries and mountain-flanked vistas, with the historic city of Launceston at its heart

- NOLA JAMES

Snaking along Tasmania's Tamar river, or Kanamaluka in palawa kani, the reconstructed language of the island's Aboriginal people, the Tamar Valley wine region is just a pup - vines may have arrived in the mid-1800s, but the industry didn't bloom until the 1980s. It's on the map now, though. Legendary local winemaker Ed Carr won two Platinum awards for his sparkling wines at the 2024 Decanter World Wine Awards.

About 50km from north to south, this unofficial sub-region (Tasmania is a singular GI) is renowned for world-class sparkling, though a cohort of still winemakers is on the up. It currently boasts around 30 wineries, with about 820ha under vine.

As few bottles make it off the island, I meet up with sommelier James Welsh for an inside line. Welsh, who co-owns Launceston restaurant Stillwater (see 'Address book', p85) drank his first wine here 20 years ago and hasn't looked back. Named a City of Gastronomy in 2021 by UNESCO, Launceston - 'Launnie', to the locals - provides the perfect base camp. But don't try to do the whole region in a day, Welsh advises. 'Do the east [of the river] one day, then the west,' he says.

The east is leafy, with slopes of vines and water views. To the west, vineyards share real estate with sheep farms along gum tree-lined roads. 'And you can have so much fun close to the city,' he adds.

The region is famous for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which form the backbone of its sparkling wines, but don't overlook the Rieslings. Cool conditions – pack a coat, no matter the season - make for some ageworthy souvenirs.

Day 1: East of the river