Pleats please

The angrakha has morphed as it has changed hands and traditions over the years, but TANYA MEHTA finds that its time-honoured appeal hasn't waned centuries later

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In the 19th century, Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Awadh, made a splash when he donned an ornate angrakha in a style that exposed his left nipple. “This wasn't a licentious fashion scandal—the Nawab, a rather rotund figure, was probably carrying some holiday weight, leading to unintentional flashes of skin,” explains Pramod Kumar KG, a curator and co-founder of Eka Archiving Services. Ironically, the word angrakha is derived from the Sanskrit term angrakshak or “the protector of skin”.

The voluminous, tunic-like garment is characterised by a circular or triangular front yoke called purdah, an emperor line and cross wrap secured with ties at the shoulder or waist. Over the years, it has become a universal silhouette of sorts, its construction adapted in novel ways by clans and kingdoms. Kumar points out that 20th century published notes by scholars identify the regional differences from the shape of the cut on the bodice. “When rounded, it is likely to be Rajput and when the cut plunges till the waist, it’s considered Maratha style,” he says. “A famous portrait of the Nawab of Rampur sees the garment with pockets on either side, signalling evolved innovation and utilitarian detailing.”