BLAZY OF GLORY

The debut show of Chanel's new creative director, Matthieu Blazy, was both feverishly anticipated and rapturously received. NATHAN HELLER reports from inside the months-long preparations.

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Fashion cannot exist without change, but some changes reach beyond the season. When it was announced in 2024 that Chanel was without a creative director, people across the industry looked to the house in nervous expectation. For nearly 40 years, Chanel had articulated the vision of one man: Karl Lagerfeld. After he died, in 2019, his longtime deputy Virginie Viard had carried on his style. Viard’s departure opened one of the highest seats in fashion, but also raised the possibility that Chanel’s taste could take a startling turn. Matthieu Blazy, a comparatively young designer who had distinguished himself at Bottega Veneta, was not considered an obvious choice, and when he was announced as artistic director in December 2024, he had the task not just of working his way out from a long shadow but also of showing where, as a designer of largely unknown capacities, he might go. The future course of the house would come down to his October 2025 debut.

When that first show in Paris arrives, the vaulted backstage of the Grand Palais, a Beaux Arts wonder on the banks of the Seine, shivers in preparation. Forty minutes before showtime, Blazy appears, looking tense. “I'm a bit all over the place, to be honest—I'm going to have a cigarette,” he says, and rushes off again.