Loromania!

A standard-bearer of quiet luxury finds itself unexpectedly tap dancing in the spotlight, embraced by American hypebeasts, Gstaad Guy, and Kendall Roy. Back in Milan, it's business as usual. There are 100 years to toast.

- MARISA MELTZER 

Of course you know the saying: “Money talks. Wealth whispers.” Here’s what that sounds like. It’s a weekday afternoon at the Loro Piana boutique on Madison Avenue in New York City, and there is music playing—a faraway tinkle of Italian pop—but amid the white floral bouquets and low-slung cream sofas where well-preserved men with lush thickets of hair are trying on slip-ons and piles of sweaters, the atmosphere is hushed.

Founded a century ago, long before the notion of quiet luxury filtered down to mainstream fashion, Loro Piana is today a redoubt of refinement. It has 171 stores around the world, each catering to potentates of every imaginable stripe, from standard-bearing power brokers like Bill Gates to next-gen fictional machers like Succession’s Kendall Roy, fan of the Savile cashmere-blend overcoat ($8,895). “If you know, you know,” says Loro Piana chief executive Damien Bertrand, formerly managing director of Christian Dior Couture. “It goes beyond fashions, logos, and seasonality.” Captains of industry patronize Loro Piana not just to telegraph that they’re above trends but to project what they do care about.

“Trends whip through banks. Like, everyone purchases the same Cartier watch and Ferragamo tiny print tie,” says Jessica Cadmus, a stylist at Wardrobe Whisperer who specializes in dressing C-suite executives and partners (she takes clients only by referral). “Loro Piana is a much quieter brand. It’s for people who are senior who want to look current but don’t want to be loud.”