Rooted THREADS

Indian textile storytellers are honouring their land, labour, & lineage as they weave sustainability into every thread, finds Pritika Rao

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Fabric finds itself at the intersection of wellness, sustainability and fashion as we see a renewed interest in incorporating more local, agricultural and sensory traditions into our cloth. Natural dye is not new to India, but its resurgence is more than just a nod to sustainability—it's a reclamation of memory. In the book 'Indigo' by Jenny Balfour-Paul, originally published in 1998, she writes that the dye's name is derived from the Greek 'indikon,' meaning 'a substance from India.' The inky blue dye has been used for centuries in block printing and resist-dyeing traditions like Bagru and Ajrakh. Bright yellow turmeric has been used for ritual garments, marriage ceremonies, and temple offerings. Manjishtha (Indian madder root) has been used in Kalamkari painting and Ajrakh printing and as a medicinal herb. Pomegranate rinds have also been used in Ajrakh and Dabu traditions. These natural dyes were historically derived from kitchen waste, forest produce, or medicinal plants, making them sustainable by default.

STORIES IN SCENTED MEMORIES

The work of New York-based textile artist Pallavi Padukone is rooted in the history and heritage she carries with her. “Living in New York during the unpredictability of the pandemic made me very emotional and nostalgic, inspiring my ongoing collection ‘Reminiscent’. I loved how certain smells could unlock memories and nostalgia, condensing time and distance.” The fragrance is the hero, inspiring her colour palette. “I associate the sweet scent of jasmine with delicate soft hues of pink, creams and pastel green, while sandalwood with more earthy browns and deep wine reds reminiscent of its musky, powdery and creamy woody scent.”