MUSIC OF THE SPHERES

Van Cleef & Arpels's Perlée collection is a continuation of a long-standing house motif delicate, playful beading that dates back more than a century.

- Véronique Hyland

When archaeologist Howard Carter stumbled upon King Tutankhamun’s tomb in the Valley of the Kings in 1922—revealing what the New York Times called “undreamed-of splendors,” including gilded court sandals, their soles imprinted with the faces of Egypt’s enemies, and a gold cobra necklace—few could have predicted that the discovery would kick off a craze for ancient Egypt–inspired design that would dominate the decade. Designer Paul Poiret got in on so-called “Tutmania” with pieces like a sparkling gold dropwaist dress decorated in Egyptian-style emblems, while bobbed hair and kohl eyeliner became beauty fads among flappers.

In the jewelry realm, Van Cleef & Arpels combined the theme with Art Deco design, producing showpieces that were threaded with metal grains accenting the gems. The baubles were decorated with motifs like hieroglyphs and sphinxes; today, they are highly prized by collectors.