FOR THE LOVE OF Codpieces

When skirts, tights and frills were the hallmarks of masculinity

- Mark Dolan

Walking through the womenswear section of a clothing shop into the men's section is to feel the clouds darken the atmosphere as different shapes, bright colours and styles give way to plain blue, black and grey jackets, trousers and waistcoats. But it wasn't always like this. In the 400-odd years before the French Revolution, men (well, rich ones) would adorn themselves in bright colours, luxurious fabrics and extravagant silhouettes. ‘Fashion’ in a way we might recognise today first emerged in the second half of the 14th century, when men started to don garments more shapely and tailored than the simple, if practical, tunic. The gipon, or doublet, was the first iteration of this, a garment that was cinched around the waist and padded around the chest. Coming only to the knees, it was almost immediately dubbed indecent by the moralists of the day.