AN ODE TO INDIA

The first three-Michelin star recognition for an Indian restaurant has put Indian cuisine in an unprecedented spotlightalong with its head chef Himanshu Saini.

- SUMAN TARAFDAR

Pani Puri Avocado, Jicama, Green Plum Aguachile Shiso khakra, Yogurt Crémeux, Garden Herbs Tender Coconut Kushiyaki, Yuzu rasam Turbot, Black Truffle Thokku, Cauliflower Varuval Kebab & Kebab Scarpetta, Sourdough Toasts

These are just some of the dishes at Trèsind Studio-yes, the very one that the judging gods of Michelin deemed superlative enough to award three stars in their latest rankings. A three-star ranking implies that a restaurant deserves a special journey to the destination just for itself.

Indian cuisine. In the global scheme of (unofficial) cuisine rankings, dishes from India-popular as they may be at the street level- have not really made the cut in the global haute cuisine stakes. Well, with the awarding of three Michelin starts to Trèsind Studio, Dubai, in the just announced list, Indian food-be it ghee roast, or tomato tikka masala, or medu vada- are now part of that rarefied world. And the credit for this goes to Himanshu Saini, not even 40 years old yet, but whose name shall henceforth be heralded as having created a breakthrough moment for Indian cuisine.

For those familiar with Saini's skill, this comes as no surprise. Since his days at Manish Mehrotrahelmed Indian Accent, followed by stint in Masala Library and Farzi Café before finding his voice in Dubai, Saini has been a star wherever he went. His experience and innovation with food have been widely recognised, and awards and honours have regularly flowed, the latest being named 27th in The World's Best Restaurants 2025.