Where Food Meets Magic

THE FOOD AT THE ROCA BROTHERS' RESTAURANT IN GIRONA TRANSCENDS THE ORDINARY TO BECOME PURE MAGIC

- RAAJ SANGHVI

What does it mean to eat at the Best Restaurant in the World? To find out, I landed in Barcelona in early December, dodged the Gaudí fans and pickpockets, and boarded a train to Girona-a medieval Catalan city so picturesque it might as well have been designed by Disney. But let's be honest: nobody comes to Girona for its history or architecture. They come for the Roca brothers.

Joan, Josep and Jordi Roca have transformed Girona into a global culinary destination. Their restaurant, El Celler de Can Roca, doesn't just have three Michelin stars-it's been crowned the World's Best Restaurant twice. Each brother specialises in one part of the dining experience: Joan oversees savoury dishes; Josep curates beverage pairings; while Jordi has mastered the art of pastry. Together, they've built a culinary empire that includes a chocolate factory, a wine bar, and a boutique hotel that feels like Willy Wonka's Spanish vacation home.

I checked into Casa Cacao the evening before my meal, the 15-room boutique hotel in the heart of Girona run by Joan's wife. Understated luxury met artisanal charm, from the rooftop views to the exquisite chocolates left in my room-each detail a testament to the Rocas' meticulous care. The next morning, a visit to Jordi Roca's chocolate factory offered a peek into their philosophy. Ecuadorian cacao beans were transformed into edible art with an almost fanatical dedication to precision, setting the stage perfectly for the meal to come.