HALF WAY HEAVEN

A FINAL PACIFIC PASSAGE FROM FRENCH POLYNESIA TO NEW ZEALAND TAKES THE SWAN 37 ELIXIR HALFWAY AROUND THE WORLD

- MAX CAMPBELL

We leave Tahiti with strong trades. Easterlies funnel along the side of the volcanic island, and Elixir tears downwind toward Mo'orea. It's humpback season. Occasionally, behind foaming crests, we glimpse their immense bodies - the sun reflecting off their polished backs. The islands' saw-toothed ridges of dark rock catch the fluffy tradewind clouds. Deep, verdant valleys add to the ethereal scene. There's something magical about the South Pacific. It's the people and the places, tales of ancient voyagers and abstract deities. A sense of fierce beauty in every glance of swaying palms and textured lagoons.

We're halfway through our Pacific crossing. Over the last four months we've covered 3,500 miles from the arid shorelines of Mexico, through the secluded communities of the Marquesas and Tuamotus and into the pristine lagoons of the Society Islands. Ahead, there's another 2,500 miles - the 'dangerous middle' through Samoa and Tonga and onward to New Zealand.

THE SOCIETIES

The Societies blend the striking volcanic formations of the Marquesas with the circular atolls of the Tuamotus. They consist of a volcanic island, engulfed by a barrier reef. Tahiti is the largest, and a succession of smaller islands extend a few hundred miles west, towards the next island nation, The Cook Islands.

After Tahiti and Mo’orea, we make quick stops at Raiatea, Maupiti and Maupiha’a. The islands become progressively less populated and a clear trend emerges: the smaller the population, the friendlier the locals.

There’s a steep price on groceries in French Polynesia. Fortunately, we discover the trading economy. Our worn lines, fish hooks, torn sails, and old clothes gain a newfound value. A modest bag is readily swapped for a few weeks’ worth of fresh provisions.