Southwest Turkey

Four days' worth of exploring on the bike that I should have bought 10 years ago!

- Arthur Turner

A decade ago, after 12 years and over 70k on the clock, it was time for me to change my Honda Varadero. And, while I'd always been a Honda rider, I had been tempted by a Yamaha XT1200ZE Super Ténéré. Although not tempted enough to actually buy one...

Another decade later, and I find myself based in Ankara, Turkey, while my bikes are stored at home in France. A four-day break has given me an excuse for an adventure, so I flew to Antalya to rent a bike from TBR Motorcycle Rentals, with my choice being a 1200 Super Ténéré!

TBR is a small, well-run business with a good mix of bikes, including new Honda Africa Twins. It hasn't the razzmatazz of a Motorrad dealership, but a nice office, a well-equipped workshop, and a fleet of expertly maintained two-wheelers parked out the back in their secure courtyard. They rent out mountain bikes as well, if you're feeling fit.

Formalities complete, I'm heading out on to the D400 west to escape the Antalya city traffic. It's a busy two-laned highway occasionally interrupted by traffic lights, but the traffic flows well enough, and in around 20 minutes I am turning off towards the mountains.

As my work took me to Istanbul for three months last year, and then Ankara for the last six months, I am well used to Turkish driving and their interpretation of the 'rules of the road. My advice is simple: drive at the same speed as the locals, even if it's above the speed limit, keep a close eye in your mirrors, and try to imitate an owl by looking over both shoulders. Also, remember that truck drivers consider they have the right of way whatever the circumstances, particularly on small roads. In the main, though, you will find Turkish drivers quite courteous. If you get your nose in front, the road is yours and you will get a friendly smile. I've never seen any road-rage in Turkey, though I'm told it does happen from time to time.