Between Breads

The sourdough became a pandemic favourite, but is the trend here to stay, or do we already have the next sourdough in waiting? Industry experts and chefs weigh in on the big bread conversation

- Lubna Salim

When I first bought sourdough from a French bakery in Paris many moons ago, the slightly chewy and tangy texture of this airy bread with a crisp, crackly crust won me over. And last year, when journalist Vir Sanghvi wrote about sourdough picking popularity, little did I realise that it would, in fact, become the pandemic bread of choice of a primarily rice- and roti-eating nation like India, which relies heavily on soft, industrial bread.

From the shiny shelves of five-star hotels and high-end restaurant menus where it appealed to the developed palate of wellheeled locals and overseas guests, this bread has entered the ovens of home bakers and local bakery chains. Not only have sales picked up everywhere — retail outlets offering artisanal breads included — but also bakers have become confident to add new spins to sourdough.

But will it remain at the peak of its popularity, or will a new bread overtake? We find out.

Home baker Sakshi Singh runs La Leurre with her mother, Vandana Singh, in Delhi, and feels a lot of people are now aware of how bread is made, and they only want the best. “Sourdough is always going to have its place right at the top because of its health benefits. For some people, it has become more of a household staple, rather than a trend. I see people leaning more towards artisanal breads than commercial breads now,” she says, adding that healthier vegan, Keto, and glutenfree bread are fast gaining momentum and that the next bread that may demand attention could be the vegan one.

For Mitali Sahani, founder and chef at Mr and Mitts Bakery, there isn’t a “next sourdough”, but sourdough is being played with, with multiple flavours and additions. Think garlic, olives, herbs, cheese, seeds, grains, and cherry tomatoes.