Thrifty & Green: Why “Nose to Tail” Is Back on the Menu

Fancy an artisanal pâté, crispy pigs’ ears or sautéed sweetbreads? If so, you’re taking part in one of this season’s hottest trends: nose-to-tail eating.

- Kate Geagan

If you’re like me, you probably didn’t grow up craving cuts like tripe or pigs’ feet. Liver? Maybe. But if you’ve ever wandered through food markets in other countries, chances are you’ve seen something different: whole animals butchered and on display, waiting to be transformed into something delicious. For those of us raised in the era of gleaming butcher counter displays, filled with perfectly portioned, glossy wrapped cuts of meat (that seem far removed from where they came from), the notion of digging into a dish featuring organs or other “unsavory bits” can feel a bit jarring. But a new movement led by chefs, artisan butchers, foodies and environmentally conscious eaters aims to change that. Better still, it’s changing how we shop, cook and eat.

What is nose-to-tail eating?

A top trend of 2018, nose-to-tail eating is a philosophy of using every part of the animal in food preparation, letting nothing go to waste. Aside from its appeal as a more traditional diet, it’s also one of the most economically and environmentally friendly ways to approach working with meat. Plus, it aims to squash our squeamishness: from charcuterie to cod cheeks, nose to tail celebrates traditionally prepared dishes that feature overlooked or lesser-known parts.

It’s green and mean