FRENCH ALLURE

Scott Pickett’s sexy new clubhouse brings old-school, French flavours to the city

- MICHAEL HARDEN

A spic. It’s not often spotted on modern menus in Australia which, after a close encounter with the amber-hued smoked eel jelly at Chancery Lane, is a crying shame. The aspic in question is thrillingly clean-edged, dome-shaped, and encases a soft, gooey quail egg and hot-smoked Skipton eel. It’s served with matchstick fries seasoned with flecks of dried capers and black olives. The blend of textures, flavours and temperatures is masterly. I felt like applauding.