Bitter brew

Vermouth and amaro stem from a long homemade tradition of experimentation and regional influences, writes MAX ALLEN.

- MAX ALLEN

Michael Zaccaria grew up in a typical Italian-Australian household. His Calabrian grandfather opened a small music store in Melbourne just after World War II, building it up into a bigger business over the ensuing decades. Relatives of his father’s generation still grow grapes and make wine in Calabria. Wine – and music – was always a part of family life. So was vermouth, often drunk as a refreshing aperitivo. And various kinds of amaro, the strong, bittersweet liqueur often served in Italian restaurants and households to aid with digestion.

“Grandfather’s favourite drink on a hot day was a Bianco vermouth with soda,” remembers Zaccaria. “And Dad and my grandfather would always have an amaro after the meal every night. That’s what sparked my interest in those drinks: when you’re surrounded by something your whole life it imprints itself on your brain. And that interest became a passion.”

Zaccaria worked in the family’s music business for a while, but in 2017, he gave in to his passion and started his own wine import company, QuelVino. And as well as shipping a wide range of wines from Italy, he also decided to bring in Amari and vermouths, from producers as far apart as Piedmont and Sicily.