Louis Barruol

One of the Rhône Valley’s most celebrated winemakers, the Château de Saint Cosme owner has elevated his long-established family winery – and the Gigondas appellation itself – to a new level of prominence in the greater Rhône region, and one of his latest projects sees him striving to do the same in Vinsobres, as Matt Walls discovers

- Matt Walls

I’m 50 this year – oh my God! At 50 you suddenly think, “I’ve passed the halfway mark”. But I don’t feel old at all.’ Neither does he look it. Barruol was playing in rugby tournaments (fly half) until the age of 48, and looks ready to receive a ball and start running at any moment. From a certain angle, his nose betrays his favourite sport. But off the pitch it’s an effective perch for a pair of small, round spectacles, which give him a more clerical air.

Barruol needn’t worry too much about reaching half-time – he’s already achieved more than most vignerons manage in a lifetime. In the space of a few decades he has transformed his family domaine, and with it the appellation of Gigondas. His 50th year marks two major accomplishments – establishing the largest Grenache conservatory in the world and purchasing a historic Vinsobres domaine – that further cement his position as one of the most dynamic winemakers and inspiring leaders in the Rhône Valley.

Family business

The Château de Saint Cosme estate must have been a magical place in which to grow up. It’s not huge, but the site is ancient, with preserved Roman fermentation vats still intact. The estate has been in the family since 1490, and has seen 14 generations of winemaker come and go.

Barruol worked with his father from the age of eight, and managed a harvest at 14. By 16, he had decided wine was his calling. He’s the youngest of four siblings, but there was ‘no pressure, no influence’, he says, for him to take on the estate. While Barruol was studying agricultural business at the Université de Caen his father fell ill, so on completing his studies he returned to support him, eventually taking over the reins in 1992.