Moscow's Food Tsars

What makes the city a hot favourite on the culinary map? Five restaurants that are shaking up the food order.

- Bruce Palling

Lavish restaurants are relatively new on the Russian scene, with most only emerging in the past 25 years. When it comes to fine dining, Moscow has had its share of difficulties. Apart from the billions of roubles knocked off earnings because of the collapse in oil prices, it is the sanctions Moscow has imposed on food products that has also had a major impact. No European cheese available, not to mention meat products and fresh vegetables. Despite this, there are a handful of newly opened establishments that are offering classical and innovative dishes.

SAVVA

The nearest thing to “New Nordic Cuisine” in Moscow, from talented Estonian chef Andrey Shmakov. Located on the ground floor of the Metropol Hotel, a vast century old and beautiful historic hotel built in Art Nouveau style, the décor is all marble columns and ceiling paintings. Shmakov has spent time in Denmark’s Noma and Chez Dominique, formerly the grandest restaurant in Helsinki. The cuisine style is a blend of French, New Nordic and Classic Russian. Highlights included grilled scallops with Jerusalem artichoke, kumquat and anchovy butter plus a beef tartar, which also included duck liver, egg cream, crispy parsley and capers.

Dinner for two Approximately `13,000

Address Teatralny Dr., 2, Moscow 109012,www.savvarest.ru/en/

Tel[phone]

DOCTOR ZHIVAGO