Amaro Goes American

The U.S. cocktail market is changing for the bitter

- John deBary

Italy doesn’t have a monopoly on bitter liqueurs, though it often seems that way. Campari, Cynar, Aperol, and their ilk are commonly called by their Italian name, amaro, and have been widely enjoyed in European spritzes for generations.

And while Negronis and other classic cocktails that require these herbal digestivos have become popular in the U.S., the ingredients aren’t traditionally made stateside. That’s about to change, though, as a handful of producers are boldly endeavoring to awaken the land of Bud to the beauty of bitterness.

It was only a matter of time: Sales for Italian brands Campari and Cynar have been on the upswing in recent years as bartenders have rediscovered and popularized amaro- focused drinks such as the boulevardier and the Americano. Fernet-Branca, a notoriously bitter liqueur, has even become the equivalent of a secret handshake for those working behind the bar.